Saturday, July 6, 2019

La Plata Peak

La Plata Peak

Overview
La Plata Peak is the 5th highest mountain in Colorado and the 8th highest in the contiguous U.S. The peak is located in the Sawatch Range of Colorado. This was my first ascent of La Plata, though I have attempted twice in the winter, never getting above 11,900 feet. I have climbed multiple peaks near La Plata including Elbert, and Massive to the north and Belford/Oxford, Harvard/Columbia and Yale to the south. This was the first 14er I’ve climbed since my ascent of Longs in 2016. The 14ers are overcrowded and I was reminded of this by seeing near 100 people on the route throughout the day. These peaks have advantages for newcomers to the sport as most routes have well cut in trails leading to their summits. On the other side, people like me tend to love the solitude of the mountains, and this will not be found on any 14er during the summer months in Colorado. We still climb them though, because they offer us the chance to test our endurance in an environment that we know has limited technical exposures, but offers a beautiful summit experience assuming we are physically fit and are willing to get up before the rest of the crowd does. I hope you enjoy this trip report and find it helpful in planning your next adventure in the hills.

Trail entrance from forest road
Directions/Trailhead Information
The La Plata Gulch Trailhead is located at—latitude 39.067824°, longitude -106.504950°. There is a parking area that will accommodate about a dozen vehicles. I arrived at 4:40 am, and there were only a couple spots left. A lot of people sleep in their cars or stay at a nearby camp ground for this hike. There are no restrooms at the trailhead. From the Denver, head towards the mountains on I-70 W. Take exit 195 onto CO-91 S heading towards Leadville. Drive through Leadville, heading south for about 15 miles, taking CO-82 W for roughly 15 miles to the TH. Parking will be on the south side of the road. The road to the TH is paved and is accessible for all vehicles. Note that these mileages are approximates, not exact distances.

The Climb
A solo climb up a Colorado 14er is never really a solo climb. Even though I headed out solo, I ended up climbing with 100 of my most distant friends. I took off from my place south of Denver around 2:30 am and arrived at the TH about 4:40 am. I prefer the sleep in my bed prior to climbs like this, even if it is for only 3-4 hours. Unfortunately, this is a sign of my aging. I had to squeeze my car into one of the last parking spots at the TH, where I could see many people still fast asleep in their vehicles. The nice part about being by myself was I am operating on my schedule so I can leave as early as I want and I didn’t have to hassle with pick-ups or drop-offs. I didn’t waste any time at the TH, I put my boots on and was on the trail by 4:50 am.

Stairs from hell
Since I have attempted this mountain on two other occasions, I have a good understanding of the area. There are a few spots early on, that if you aren’t paying attention you may miss the trail, especially if you are starting in the dark. This time of year, there is enough light around 5:30 am to hike without a headlamp, but anytime before then plan on having illumination. There are three bridge crossings, all of different varieties, and one stairway from hell to be found in the first segment of the Northwest Ridge Route. There is a solid trail most of the route, so just make sure you don’t miss the start of it from the forest road in the first quarter mile.

Shortly after getting onto the trail and off the forest road the is the first hikers bridge crossing. This is an impressive sight that you should take in on your way back when the sun lights up the rock. Then the trail meanders a bit, not gaining much elevation bringing you to the log bridge crossing. This is a simple crossing as there are may small-medium sized logs to walk across rather than a single large log. After this crossing you will start gaining elevation gradually, leading you to the stairs from hell. These stairs are quite large, and I assume are the root of many climbers’ knee problems. I’m not sure the total elevation they climb, maybe a couple hundred feet, but they are more taxing on the descent than the ascent. For a while the trail stays pretty close to the roaring La Plata Gulch. The stream flow was quite impressive, and a good reminder of the power of nature.

Gully switchbacks
Around the 11,000 ft contour the trail levels out for a bit and the valley opens up. The trail starts gaining elevation again as you cut across some crumbled granite making your way to the small switchback section around the 11,500 ft. These are short switchbacks that gain elevation pretty quick, see the photo looking down from the top. Once on top of this section I ran into my first bit of snow. It didn’t last long, and could be avoided by skirting around the rocks, but the snow was solid early in the morning, so I just headed up the snow. There is a long traverse with a few switchbacks that lead to shelf around 12,300 ft. This area held a large snow field and I hiked directly up the snow. This can be avoided on either side, but most direct seemed the most efficient because the snow was still firm. After a few more switchbacks you will reach the northwest ridge at about 12,700 feet. This is a good place to fuel up and take in the surrounding views before your torment your body heading up the rocky ridge.

From here, the mileage is short, but there is about 1,500 vertical feet to go. The breathing becomes more difficult, but the steps can be like stairs on the boulders. This section took me about an hour and a half to reach the summit. The trail comes an goes as you move up the ridge, but for the most part you are on a well beaten path. During my ascent I saw a couple trail runners getting after it, and it made me so tired watching them ascend, hearty individuals. I reached the summit at 8:26 am, a 4,248-foot ascent in 3 hours and 36 minutes. This beat my goal of maintaining 1,000 ft per hour by over an hour, so I’m not as out of shape as I thought.

Looking north towards Massive and Elbert
The wind was constant and this early in the day may it quite chilly. I was able to get a few bars of 4G through AT&T from the summit, but I wouldn’t count on it working for you. I had some snacks and rested for about 20 minutes then I started making my way back down. I can’t say I was looking forward to descending over 4,000 feet with no glissade in sight. I kept a decent pace, but I wasn’t racing to get down the mountain. My goal was to be back at the TH by noon, giving myself about a 3-hour descent time, which I missed by a couple minutes (12:02 pm back at the TH).

As I made my way down the ridge, I started counting all the people I saw on the route. After about 50 I gave up and just told myself, this is the life of a summer 14er in Colorado. A high percent of these people would ask how far away they were from the summit. I would politely pull out my GPS and show them where they were, but I never like giving people a time measurement because I don’t know their abilities and I don’t want to crush their hopes of the pain being over soon. I was surprised at how many people had ice axes and spikes with them. A little bit of research and you can find great condition reports on 14ers at the 14ers.com website. So, I suggest using that as a trip planning standard if you don’t already. I’m a firm believer in not carrying excess weight, especially when doing big climbs such as this. If your going to pack heavy, pack heavy on fluids.
Nick on the summit

Parting Notes
In a nutshell that’s about it. The hike down felt like a lifetime, as my knees started to scream and the temperature started to get fairly warm. I’m very happy that I got the chance to climb another mountain. Climbing 14ers can be a lot of fun, though I still prefer the less crowded 13ers, it is nice to checkoff a top 10 mountain in the contiguous U.S. I’m looking forward to climbing with my old buddy Brian towards the end of the month, so hopefully there will be some more trip reports coming your way shortly. In the meantime, happy trails and stay safe in the mountains. Cheers!

GPX route
Date: July 5, 2019
Trailhead Elevation: 10,170 feet
La Plata Peak: 14,334 feet
Total Ascent: 4,303 feet
Class: 2
Distance: 8.75 miles
Moving Time: 6 hr 27 min
Stopped Time: 0 hr 45 min
Climbing Partners: solo









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